Hedge Funds To Hedgerows

I made the decision to pop across the border today to Israel, specifically the old city of Jerusalem. Despite the recent “debacle”, the coast (excuse the pun) looks clear for now so I thought that I’d duck in and out. Talk to anyone about crossing the Jordanian/Israeli border and you’ll be put off in a second with all the procedure that’s involved. In truth though I found it to be quite a smooth (if a little drawn out) process. Perhaps it’s because I look so innocent and harmless with Norbert hanging out of my backpack. I could have caught a bus from the main station in Amman, but you have to wait for these to fill up before they leave, so I paid up for a cab……less hassle and quicker as I could get to the border in about 40 minutes. And where else would you get your Jericho-born Jordanian cab driver telling you Bible stories on your trip. Only he knows where the REAL baptism site is! It’s all a little weird as the cab can’t take you the last little bit so you meet some other random cab that’s waiting for you in the middle of nowhere and it takes you the last little bit. This whole cab journey sees you back in The Rift Valley and it was lovely to be back in the desert and out of the hustle and bustle of Amman. Once you get to the border, there’s very little direction so you just have to sort of feel your way through the process. First there are security checks and then you see passport control. You have to ask them not to stamp your passport (that’s if you want to go to certain other countries on that same passport). You then have to get on a bus with your bag and it’s here that you get your passport back and also pay 3JD for the 5min journey between the two borders. There’s no alternative. In no-mans-land the bus was stopped once or twice whilst someone bordered, checked us over and let us proceed. Once at the Israeli border, your suitcase gets taken off you and x-rayed and then you show your passport the first time (you have to show it about 5 times before you reach the exit!). Passport control is next and again you have to ask them not to stamp it. They then give you the third degree, but you know they’ll co-operate anyway, so you just go along with it. “Why don’t you want it stamped?”. “Because I want to go to other countries.” “What other countries?” “Like Syria.” “Why do you want to go to Syria?” “I don’t. But if I did. Look…it’s a new passport and I don’t want to limit myself.Ok!?!?!?” “Ok.” Breathe. Next you grab your bag and head out to find a minibus. Done. The whole process from start to finish only took about 1-1.5hrs and with stories of it taking 3hrs, I was happy. Most of the wasted time is due to tourists complaining because they have to catch the bus between the borders…and pay for it! Most of the staff seem to be females and at the checkpoint crossed on the way to Jerusalem, they were nearly all young girls with semi-automatic weapons.

The drive to Jerusalem is only about 30kms and you pass many ramshackle bedouin camps on the way in the desolate landscape. We drove right beside Jericho and Temptation Mount. The thing is, the landscape here looks like a mine or something, and I can’t believe that all the sandy hills are where they were 2000 years ago. So how do they know that that particular mount is Temptation Mount? Sorry if I’m sceptical, but it does make you wonder. There are other sites that raise the same questions for me. Anyway, forgetting that, whether you believe it all or not, this is a land of mystery and vivid stories. The place names are those of fairytales and legend. The places that are from your Sunday School stories, not real, live places, but here I am standing right in those spots and it really is incredibly surreal.

Arriving at the old city of Jerusalem, I entered the Damascus Gate which leads you into the almost Disneyland like souks of the Muslim Quarter. This is supposed to be where the cheap accommodation is. There are lots of different hospices which are supposed to be good, cheap travellers’ accommodation. I was directed to the Armenian Hospice and at (what I thought was) £25/night, it was a bargain. A very basic bargain, but clean and central. I had to go and find an ATM to get some schakel (no mean feat…they really are few and far between!) and came back triumphantly with the balance owed to find out that the price he quoted was just for one night, not two (even though I had checked that. Thief!). Seeing he already had most of my money, I thought I’d stay here tonight and look for something else tomorrow.

Right. My hospice is on the Via Dolorosa (Way of the Sorrows….the 14 stations of The Passion), so nice and handy. The whole route really isn’t very long, but it is very interesting. The people are all really friendly and you can only try to stop them helping, directing and passing information onto you. They’re all really genuine about it too. They just seem so pleased with the whole place and history and can’t wait to share it, whether they’re Muslim, Jewish or Christian. There is some doubt as to whether this route is THE precise route as historians have other ideas. That’s why I find it a little strange the fervour with which people undertake this walk. Anyway….it works for them. The first station is within a muslim boys’ school and proves some super views of The Temple Mount. The children here are evil though. One possessed child stole Norbert and wouldn’t give him back. Plain evil, I say! Station 2 is the Church of the Condemnation and the Church of the Flagellation. These are Franciscan run. I love how everyone gets a little bit of Jesus…the Franciscans and the Greek Orthodox in particular. The Church of the Condemnation still has original Roman road inside it and carvings made by Roman soldiers on the pavement. Station 3 is just a corner where Jesus was supposed to have fallen and station 4 was where he faced his Mum. Station 5 is where Simon supposedly took the cross off Jesus and there is a rock in the wall here that legend says Jesus lent on. Ok then. Station 6 is where Veronica wiped Jesus’ face with a cloth. Up until this point, the whole path is within the Muslim Quarter, taking you deep, deep within the souk. The market place here is brilliant. The crazy labyrinth of any souk, but its covered and really clean. All of the shops are really well looked after. By Station 7 and 8 you’re starting to enter the Christian Quarter and by Station 9 (where Jesus fell a third time), there’s a great little hole-in-the-wall. St Helena’s Chapel is here (she was the mother of Emperor Constantine and it was she who decided where Calvary was 300 years after Christ. It was a pagan temple at the time) and if you enter, it takes you to this huge underground cistern (I only knew this as one of the locals took me in). It was also here that Jesus was supposedly jailed for a few hours before his cross ordeal. I saw the cell, but I suspect its history could be ominous. who knows. Opposite is the Ethiopean Compound which is old and authentic.Next its into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Spirit) where the rest of the stations are located. Inside the church, you have to walk some steep little stairs to reach Calvary. This area is divided up…Franciscans on one side and Greek Orthodox on the other. The Franciscans get the nailing onto the cross bit and the Orthodox get the cross on the hill bit. It’s weird to think that this is/was actually a hill, as it’s really just the inside of a church, but there is bare rock below, so there you go. It’s funny to compare the subdued tones of the Franciscans and the glitz and glamour of the Orthodox half. There’s no mistaking who looks after which bit! People were crawling into a hole, talking or kissing or something a picture of Jesus and sticking their hand in a hole. What the…? Anyway, I was there so I couldn’t resist a go. When it was my turn, I had no idea what I was supposed to do so I just crawled into the hole bit, said hello to Jesus, stuck my hand in the hole and left to take a photo of Norbert in front of the whole thing. Not sure if you’re suppose to be taking pictures of your sheep in a place like that, but then why should he miss out?? Next it was down the stairs to Jesus’ tomb. Wasn’t he buried in a cave in the side of a cliff or was I not paying attention at Sunday School? Today it’s like a big hall and someone’s built a free standing chapel in it. Perhaps Jesus was buried here somewhere, but this concrete room definitely wasn’t it, so again I’m at a point where I don’t get all the people lining up in crowds to walk in and out. If it works for them. Great. I just don’t get it. It’s good for people watching though. People undertaking their rituals. And Norbert had another photo taken. There are some beautiful hidden corners to this church and it’s worth a wander around. Ok…my last bit of scepticism for the moment. There’s a big slab of stone at the entrance to the church. People throw themselves over it and kiss it and wipe it with cloth to take with them and I even saw a group place their touristy Jerusalem bags on it to soak up the energy, I guess. This stone is believed to be the one on which Jesus’ body was laid out and anointed. The thing is, the slab was only placed there in 1810, so I don’t know. Anyway, like I said, the place is no less amazing, in fact this city could possibly be one of the most amazing places I’ve ever been to.

If you go up onto the roofs, you can see Jerusalem laid out in front of you and you can see how the different Quarters relate to each other. Christian, Muslim, Jewish and Armenian, and it is these four backgrounds which make up the Jerusalem Cross. The wonderful thing is how all the religions co-exist so happily together. I don’t for one minute think that it was always so. It wasn’t, and I’m sure there’s still friction today. But I think there giving it a darn good go. Also from the roofs you can look down into the market streets, however there’s mesh above them as the Jewish and Muslim Quarters are side-by-side and in times past they used to through stones down on each other. Nice.

Next destination was The Western Wall (or The Wailing Wall). This is the retaining wall of the second Jewish Temple and is the most sacred spot in Judaism. The Jews originally would pray at this wall after the Temple’s destruction as they they were unsure of The Temple’s layout and didn’t want to walk on the Holy of Holies, so they just remained outside at the wall. This area has an interesting history. Jews lost access to it in 1948 when the Jordanians took over the whole city. Nineteen years later Israeli paratroopers reclaimed the Old City in The Six Day War. By this stage Arab houses had been built quite close to the wall, but these were quickly bulldozed and now the whole area in front of the wall is just one, big, open space. Anyone can go right up close to the wall, but men and women are still segregated. There are also lots of little pieces of paper stuck into the wall carrying written prayers. There really is quite a lot of emotion going on here, people rocking to and fro, faces pushed into Torahs, contorted with lament. This is the place of the Hasidim Jew and it really is quite strange to see those hats and hair dos up close. I stood there inthralled for minutes just watching all this unfold in front of me. It wasn’t just on tv anymore. It was real.

Next it was back to the hospice with my poor, aching feet.

XXX

A lazy morning was had before heading out on the town. Amman is like a big, sprawling rabbit warren, undulating over its seven hills. The best way around is by taxi and most trips will cost close to 1JD, 3JD if you have to go to the other side of town. Every cab driver will also give you his card. He will take you anywhere in Jordan, even to Aqaba! And, of course it goes without saying that he alone will give you the very best rate. My backpack is jammed full of business cards now. I’ve never seen so many. The first cab driver took me to the 3rd Circle (by the way, they don’t seem to know their city very well. Makes you really appreciate those London black cab drivers). My first random coincidence happened when, talking about Wadi Rum and having him tell me he’d been there a month ago to see his friend, he pulled out his phone to show me his video footage. His friend was none other than Suliman, the young bloke who had looked after us. Small world. Anyway, I was off to find the tourist information centre (one of which doesn’t seem to exist) to get some ideas to fill the next few days. I had to settle for the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, but 1st Lt Talal was most helpful. Next I walked towards 1st Circle and down Rainbow St (cool name, huh? There’s also a Mango St) to the Jordan River Foundation (a shop selling goods produced by disadvantaged women in the Jordan River area) and then to Wild Jordan Cafe (where they promote the country’s nature reserves and ecotourism). They’re trying but there’s so much more work to do, not so much with the tourists but the local people. They have a vegan cafe here, but it’s really expensive for what it is. Next it was down the steps into the old part of the city where all the souks are. It’s crazy down here. Busy and atmospheric, but the pollution is choking and the novelty of “Welcome to Jordan!” has kind of worn off by now. Next it was time to find a new hotel (cheaper was the word of the day!). I did drop by Hotel Le Royal for a toilet break, but the 5 star hotel that’s full of white robed sheikhs lounging around pretending that they own the world (actually…..they probably do!!) watching sharks swimming around in a tank, was a tad out of my range. I settled on Toledo Hotel and then went to find the Royal Jordanian Airline office just to see about changing my plane ticket. What should have been a five minute walk took an hour and five minutes, doing a 1hr circle and ending back at my hotel first. People here are really hopeless at reading maps (looks like I have to include myself in that group too!) and by the end of my “circle” I was completely over taxi drivers asking me if I wanted a, “taxi, Damascus, Syria?” Do I look like I want to go to Damascus? Is it written on my forehead or something? I was asked sooooo many times!

By now my eyes were burning from the pollution so I took myself over to the big Mecca Mall to take a look. The cab driver said it was not just big but, “Very big AND very huge”. He was pretty right too. I don’t think Paris, London or New York need worry about competition in the fashion stakes though. Second coincidence happened as I was frustratingly trying to get my lettuce put in a separate container to my tabouli. The same guy who helped me with my tabouli in Aqaba two days ago was there with his little boy! Too weird! Saif is a Londoner with an Iraqi background whose wife is Jordanian. They’re here visiting the inlaws. They’re also on my flight on Sunday! We sat and had our meal together and discussed the London financial industry, where Saif also works. I had to try a smoothie from the same shop as it is supposedly the best in town. It was pretty good but I think I’m completely sugared out with all the fruit I’ve been eating. I’m even getting hives! The fresh sugar cane juice probably didn’t help today, but I’ve heard a bit about it and the opportunity was there. It’s quite nice.

Next it was back to the hotel via the old hotel to collect my suitcase. Very tired. I have another weird shop name for you today too: Pitti Bimbo. Hmmmm.

Question of the day: Why do they have a call to prayer at 03:00 in the morning? Do they seriously think anyone is going to turn up?? I think God wants us to sleep at some stage. Really!

XXX

Well, the Middle East has thrown up another debacle. I guess there’s always one just around the corner in these parts. I was planning on popping over to Israel but that will have to wait now. They could have at least planned their action a day earlier and saved me £20 on the Lonely Planet!! It will be interesting to see what happens with it all. The interest level over here is predictably high. You walk into any shop and ever single tv has the running news story on it, and we all know how well the media can excite people. Everyone’s relaxed now but who knows. I mean, just tonight I had a car load of “hooligans” hang out the windows and yell, “Good morning to Jordan where you now are!!”. That be fightin’ talk if ever I heard it!

It was time to leave Aqaba this morning and head up the Dead Sea Highway all the way to Amman (it takes about 3hrs if you do it with purpose). Israel is just “there” all the way up, so close you could walk there, and it’s frustrating that the problems over here just never find the right and full solution that’s required. This stretch of land is The Rift Valley and the section just after Aqaba is the very arid Wadi Araba. Beyond that is a sight I think not dissimilar to the Nile. It’s very fertile but only runs a couple of kms either side before the barren desert kicks in. Here you can find the likes of bananas and tomatoes growing (just between you and me, I’m almost tomato and cucumbered out at this stage!). Next we passed Lot’s cave (where he hid having escaped the destruction of Sodom). I often wander how Lot made it into The Bible what with having hung out at Sodom and Gomorrah and then getting it on with his daughters. Weirdo. I guess having connections high up (he was the nephew of Abraham) helps. His two sons/grandsons (not sure what you’d call them!) Moab and Ben-Ammi fathered the two big tribes in the area, the Moabites and Ammonites. Although the two evil cities of Sodom and Gomorrah have never been found (they may have been swallowed up by seismic activity), the cave seems legit with Lot’s name being mentioned on an inscription in the cave.

We passed some big money-earners for Jordan, being potash and magnesium oxide processing plants and by now The Dead Sea was back in sight. Did you know that you never get burnt in the Dead Sea area because the salt haze produces a barrier that blocks UV rays. The water was so blue and being a hot day it was tempting to dive in. You can see all the salt encrusted on the shore and our driver climbed the cliff to bring us rocks of it. Not sure what I’ll do with it, but I guess you pay top dollar for things like that! Next we passed through Wadi Mujib which used to be the border between Moab and Ammon. This area boasts a great nature reserve but we could see but just one gorge from the road.

By lunchtime we were back in Amman and took a quick drive around the very wealthy southern suburbs of the city. You could be in any wealthy suburb in the world here, and they really do have some money to play with. The houses are ENORMOUS! The American Embassy is also in this area and the security is out of this world. I like how they have this massive US flag, but it’s descreetly tucked away between two buildings, not right out in your face. That’s not like them!! 😉 It was at half mast today, so I’m not sure who’s died. Probably all those birds and fish from the oil spill courtesy of BP. Seriously BP and US Government. Must try harder!!!!!!!

After lunch it was onto Jebel al-Qala’a (the citadel). There has been a fortress and market place on this site for thousands of years. It’s the highest of the seven hills of Amman and hence provides superb views of the whole city. The ruins that remain today include those of a Roman temple believed to be for Hercules. There is also the Umayyad Palace with its reconstructed entrance hall and huge cistern. The museum that features is small but fabulous, being crammed full of 100s of artefacts, including some of the original Dead Sea Scrolls (the others being in Israel). The ones in Jordan are written on leather and copper and were found just up the road at Quamran. Amazing. Oh, and you’ll be glad to know that the whole complex was spick and span. Not a black plastic bag in sight!

Next the huge Roman Theatre was in sight. In its heyday it seated 6000 and you can almost feel all those ancient eyes staring down at you as you stand on the stage. The folk museum here is also well put together. Trivia for the day…..during Roman times, Amman was called Philadelphia.

It was then hotel “admin” and food time.

XXX

Slept outside again last night (same as last night). It’s so still and pleasantly warm with a huge full moon watching over. It feels like you’re in a big dome, a bit like The Truman Show.

I’m not a crazy breakfast person unless it’s a green juice or fruit, but the breakfasts in the Wadi are great……thyme duka, hummus, oil, hava and egg. Everyone was getting a jeep back to Rum Village, but I HAD TO have another go on a camel. I rode it all by myself this time and even got a few trots out of it! I think I may give up the horses and take up camels. I love them. They’re really even tempered and fun to deal with. So with a camel under me, my guide singing arabic songs in hushed tones behind and the Wadi Rum spread out all around, I was in heaven.

Next it was off to Aqaba, passing through very arid, treeless, hilly terrain. We also passed a big truck depot with lots of oil tankers from Saudi and Iraq. Aqaba is a pleasant little seaside town in a somewhat unusual location. It’s on the northern point of The Red Sea and shares the scrap of shoreline with Israel and Jordan. Eilat in Israel is so close that it almost merges into Aqaba. Taba in Egypt isn’t too far around from that, its buildings clearly visible. If you go the other way, you’ll run into the Saudi border just 20km up the road. Aqaba is the most important city in the south of Jordan and is really being groomed for the tourists. Although I think it might have a little way to go to attract your run-of-the-mill tourist, there are some very big and expensive hotels going up including The Saraya, which is costing a cool USD2.5B (yes…that’s a “B”, not an “M”!) Aqaba’s history includes a showing from King Solomon who supposedly put a navy together here. Today there are some not so attractive ports with massive container ships from as far away as Panama.

We jumped on a little glass bottom boat to have a look at some coral. It was a little tedious but there were a few interesting things like coral that looked like lavender and some that even looked like brains. A few tyres, drink cans and even a yogurt container could also be viewed. Jordan’s rubbish issue doesn’t seem to end at the coastline. There was also a big old container that was basically an artificial reef and also an old tank which King Abdullah had pushed into the sea (I don’t know why either). Weird to see something like that at the bottom go the sea though. I think I may introduce a Clean Up Jordan Day….or even the concept of an “eco-friendly shopping bag”. Where’s Ian Kiernan when you need him? (That’s the question of the day, btw). I think a lot of the littering comes down to arrogance. That and laziness, just watching the attitude of some people as they just toss a plastic water bottle into the street though surrounded by bins. You know, that insecurity that says, “Look at me! I’m so big and tough, I can litter!” Weirdos. Anyway…back to the story…….I jumped in for a swim but it only really lasted 5 minutes. Having seen all the weird creatures, coral and other things in there, it was really just to jump in and say I’d swum in the Red Sea, quickly before a shark came and took me away!!

The afternoon was spent wandering around the town, which really seems to be divided between poor and not so poor. Stalls sell everything from nuts to cheap but obviously mass produced (from the number that are around!) valour, man-made fibre blankets. Mmmmmm. You can also get McDonalds, Burger King, KFC and Popyes. Oh dear. The fruit and vegetable souk left a little to be desired, but at least I could get a few bits. I also had a fruit smoothie. Why is it that Jordanians can’t leave good food well alone? They have to ruin it with some sort of pollutant, usually of the sugar variety. What could have been a great drink made with fresh fruit then has sickly man-made strawberry syrup poured all down the inside edges. I had to quickly drink it before it mixed in with the drink!! I went into a perfume shop to get directions. They had all the “best” brands such as Lecosta, XY by Hogo Boss, Ioop! and Frerari (whose symbol was a black horse with just one foot off the ground instead of two!). I was about to walk out when I thought he was going to inject me with some big syringe full of sent. Next thing I was completely sprayed with the vile stuff! Coughing and with eyes burning from the “pepper spray” equivalent, I left with my deepest thanks. If nothing else, there’s a brilliant bookshop! In there I met an American couple who had been living in Petra for the last three years. They actually live in Marguerite’s village and know her. They’re begrudgingly moving back Stateside though as their daughter is university age. It was interesting to talk to them about their experiences here. After about a 3hr wander in 42C heat, it was back to the hotel to do some “admin”.

XXX

Why are people so scared of silence? Why does every second have to be filled with idle monkey chit chat? Wadi Rum is amazing and there are very few places left in the world that are this vast and silent. At least when you spend most of your time in a city, time spent in places like Wadi Rum are a rare and precious gift. So why is it so hard for some folk to just be and enjoy the moment and nature at its grandest? That can be the question of the day. There’s a great quote (though I can’y remember who wrote it) about the Sahara being Allah’s Garden as it is the only place he can come to to get away from it all. I think the same could apply to this place.

Anyway……today was spent exploring this wonderful desert area. My early disappointment of not being able to ride a horse all day today (nothing like telling your guide days in advance and still not having anything organised!!) or a camel (a bit to expensive) was short lived (I think a dummy spit of about 2 minutes isn’t bad at all!). It’s just great to be here. Every corner turned introduces a new rock formation and colour. There are jebels (mountains) which seem covered in petrified waterfalls or that runny icing was poured over them and set as it dribbled over. Some have sharp and sheer cliff faces, some are soft and rounded whilst others are cut deep with gorges. We first walked from our “camp” to El Qattar to see a spring. It’s always inspiring to see trees and plants thrive in such a harsh landscape. Where there is water, little micro ecosystems develop. As one in our group said, “Plants want to grow”, and they really do here, forcing their way through the hardest of rock with no visible soil. Good thing to keep in mind when I start my veggie garden! Next it was a short drive over to Khazali (which means something along the lines of “Suicide Ali”). A bloke called Ali killed someone and the whole tribe wanted him dead. So he ran away up the mountain, as you do. They came after him so he jumped off the cliff. Miraculously he survived so obviously having God on his side, the tribe let him live and named the mountain after him. There is a great gorge in the mountain with 7th century (supposedly) rock carvings on the wall. There’s also a very un-temporary looking bedouin tent selling souvenirs….and if you wait a while, jeep loads of Japanese tourists!!! To be fair, this was really the only spot we encountered more than a couple of people though, but last time we saw not a soul except maybe the odd shepherd. Lawrence’s House was next. There just remains one wall but it’s great to see where he lived and his view….which is nothing to complain about! He supposedly stayed here during the desert revolt. Next it was onto the obligatory sand dune climb. Only a couple of us did it. The sand was soooo scorching by this time. Makes you run up faster as your shoes fill up with sand and get slow cooked. Few things compare with the joy of running up and down (in huge, giant steps!) a dune. Small minds, perhaps?! 🙂 Next it was on to Anfashieh for some more rock art and then lunch at Siq Burrah. This was a lovely spot but if I knew we were going to be sitting there for over two hours, I would have taken my book! Hummus and tinned tuna for lunch along with sage tea. The locals think we’re completely bonkers wanting them to make the tea with no sugar in it, especially when they have about 3-4 spoonfuls per cup themselves!

The afternoon saw us visit the rock arch at Burdah and then another at Um Fruth. The latter is climbable, though if I hadn’t seen others clamber up the sheer face, I would have had my doubts. It was worth a go and I’m happy to report that both Norbert and I successfully made it there and back. Norbert is a bit stinky by now having been sprayed by the bus driver’s aftershave yesterday, and today our driver Suliman decided to do the same with his special aftershave bought for him by his cousin from Saudi Arabia. I really do think Norbert will be having a wash tonight!!

The “Wilderness Zone” was next and I remember this section of mostly white sand well, having watched it all pass slowly by on the back of a horse last time. Back to the camp by about 17:00. Time to give Norbert a bath, have a shower and watch another magic sunset before dinner and bed. Tonight I was told I should sleep with my head at the other end of the mattress. Why? Well, it’s always best to have your head facing Mecca in case you die in your sleep!

XXX

Up and out by 08:00. Only two of us decided to go back to Petra and see Al-Madbah (High Place of Sacrifice). Our guide told us that the most adventurous groups were the Israelis and French. He said Aussies and Kiwis were lazy. He said that he’s had groups of Israelis over 80yrs old walking and walking for days and doing really intense desert trips. The French visit Petra usually for four days to climbs around the whole site. Shame on us then, huh??!!!

Al-Madbah is basically above and behind the Treasury and affords some glorious views (and a fair few alters if you’re into that sort of thing!). From here you can look down on the whole site and the people walking around look like those little computerised images you see in some modern movies. We then saw the Lion Monument where water was drained through a carved lion’s mouth into a huge cistern. Near here was also The Soldier’s Tomb (named after the Roman soldier carved on the front) and the Garden Trilinium opposite. We next passed a section of old Nabatean wall (though now it is just rubble on the ground). They really did take their wall building seriously in the “olden days”. This one used to be about 6m wide. After a couple of hours we were back where we started and made our way back to the hotel ready for the journey to Wadi Rum. Our driver has taken a shine to Norbert. He’s been showered with gifts, been brushed so he looks like new and then had aftershave sprayed all over him. Hmmmmm…not sure about the aftershave. Not the nicest one I’ve ever smelt and now Norbert’s stunk everything out with him. He maybe receiving a wash sooner rather than later. Wadi Rum is around 130km from Petra along the Desert Highway, passing some really cool hotels that have been built out of the ruins of really old Bedouin villages. Must try one of these out one day. This is Lawrence of Arabia and Bedouin country. Dry and harsh and nothing but spectacular. The silence is deafening though having said that, in the few years since I’ve been here, the traffic inside the reserve has increased considerably. Perhaps more and more tourist have found this far-off place or perhaps it’s just that we haven’t ventured that far in from the village of Rum. Although desolate looking today, the Wadi Rum (once called Iram) used to have a fair few inhabitants and even once entertained vineyards, pine trees and olive groves. It’s mostly famous though as the backdrop to TE Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) and The Arab Revolt in 1917.

After a look at The Seven Pillars of Wisdom (named after Lawrence’s book) at the nice and neat little visitor’s centre it was up the road to the village of Rum to find some camels for an almost 3hr trek into the wadi to our Bedouin camp. Camels are the best. Nothing seems to bother them. I think that they may be better in the head than horses. The regular rocking motion and the soft pad of feet in the otherwise utter silence of the wadi is quite meditative. I do like camels!

The Bedouin camp was…well…interesting. Don’t get me wrong, it was very nice, but being built on besa block foundations and with wooden internal walls, I’m not sure how much of a Bedouin camp it could be classified as. There also seems to be one of these tourist “camps” hidden behind every second rock! Never mind. It’s just brilliant to be back out here in the silent vastness, walking barefoot in the sand and along the rocks and watching the sunset. Sigh.

I love the simplicity of the Bedouin life. Perhaps I only like it from a distance or for short spells. It’s easy to observe something and like it. It can be totally different thing to actually live it. The people seem content and happy though, and that is a real blessing in today’s world.

I thought I’d camp out under the stars last night. First the mozzies found me (no mozzies, I was told. Someone forgot to tell the mozzies!). Then the wind kicked up. I endured it for a while but it was more stubborn than me. At about 03:30 and covered in sand, I retreated, tail between my legs to the bedouin tent.

We started walking at 07:00 and entered Petra from the back of the site rather than the Sik like most. It was a long but super walk lending itself to some amazing views of Wadi Araba. There was one “interesting” section where we had to climb over a ledge about 20cm wide with just a sheer drop of nothingness to catch you if you slipped. It’s so rough and rocky on these trails the most amazing thing is how the Bedouin donkeys navigate them. The Bedouins live up here in caves and come backwards and forwards on their donkeys. One smart, tough little animal. Our first view of Petra was Al-Deir (The Monastery) and it truly is magnificent. At 50m x 50m it is the biggest monument in the site and it’s detail could almost rival that of the famous Treasury. Being set so high up adds to its majesty. If you go a little further up, you’ll find an alter. The Nabataeans loved a sacrifice and there are alters everywhere, scattered over the cliffs. After a short break (I was a bit over short breaks by the end of the day. Aren’t we here to see things not sit on our rear ends and complain about the heat??), we headed down to the main site and had lunch. The Bedouin have their little tourist stalls perched in the most interesting of places. You turn a corner on a cliff face, and there’s a stall waiting for you. The downside of Petra is the rubbish. It’s strewn everywhere and really detracts from the place. Surely more pride should be taken in this “Wonder Of The World”.

The area of Petra was first inhabited by Neolithic types from about 7000BC. We were able to see the ruins of on of these villages on up walk to the Monastery. It was built about the same time as Jericho. The Nabateans (a nomadic tribe from western Arabia) who are responsible for most of the ruins didn’t arrive here until about the 700BC mark. Being located on a main trade route, they made their money by demanding taxes from travellers for safe passage. (Nothing has really changed. It costs JD33 (about GBP30) to get in!!). They were able to keep the Romans at bay for a while, but after a couple of not so successful run-ins with Herod The Great Roman control was the order of the day for a big slice of their territory.

Next it was time to take a wander along the Cordo (the old main street). Although originally Nabatean, the layout of what’s left is typically Roman. Here is found Qasr Al-Bint (Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter) and the Great Temple (which is still being excavated). In here there is still the slight hint of the original art work and a small theatre. By this time I was surrounded by tourists with gaping mouths like goldfish all complaining of the heat (ok..so it was about 40C but it’s a dry heat and really not that bad). I mean really…..you came to the Middle East in Summer. What did you expect? Snow??

Surrounding all the monuments and in all the cliffs, there is the constant reminder of the Nabateans’ great skill as engineers. Yes with their buildings, but even more so their water system. Drains, often ornate and great cisterns are scattered everywhere. Next it was a climb up to the Byzantine church with it’s mosaic floor before heading over to the Royal Tombs. These are terribly impressive, even if you exclude the ornate sculptured rock facades. The colours and swirls of the natural rock is something else. I don’t think that any art work could compare. A clamber down to the main road then saw us close to the Theatre, passing little stores…many run by the kiddies at this time of day with school finishing at about 14:00. They are quite entrepreneurial. Having been told that an item was JD1, when I showed interest it suddenly got bargained all the way up to JD3!! No sale, funnily enough! Even though the Theatre looks very Roman, it was built by the Nabateans (they loved the Romans and enjoyed a bit of the culture that came hand-in-hand with them before the little disagreements that followed later). Opposite we hoped to find Marguerite van Geldermalsen, a New Zealand woman who famously married a Bedouin and lived in the caves of Petra back in the 1970s. Her book is well known globally. She wasn’t there but we met her son, a good looking chap with a very strong Kiwi accent! We then went to take a daylight view of the very famous Al-Khazneh….. Treasury (the one you see in all the photos of Petra!). Although carved out of the rock face by the Nabateans as a tomb for their king Aretas III, it is Hellenic in design and has both Greek and Roman gods decorating the facade. It received its name The Treasury as there’s a story that a Pharaoh being persued by Israelites hid his treasure in the urn at the top. We exited the site via the winding sik. This is not technically a canyon but a large bit of rock ripped apart in one go by tectonic forces (feel free to use that bit of trivia to impress friends at dinner parties!).

By 16:30 it was time to head to the hotel. My next aim was to wander the streets of Wadi Musa in search of fruit, vegetables and nuts. Mission accomplished. Found a great little fruit market. The raw produce is soooooo cheap over here! I love some of the shop names over here…. “Every Thing Supermarket”, “Magic Hand Barbers”, “Love Lion Shop”, “Why Not Shop”. Had tea with some locals next then headed back home.

Dinner was at a place called Petra Kitchen. Here you make your dinner and then eat it. Nice idea but it possibly didn’t receive the energetic response it deserved seeing we’d been up since 05:30 and had spent all day at an archaeological site in 40C heat. Nice fresh food though and an awful lot of it! The left overs, we were told go to feed someone’s family and neighbours. Nice little racket if you ask me. Get some tourists in and charge them to cook a meal. Give them a little bit then take the rest home to feed the clan. Oh well….whatever works. Should take notes.

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Wed: Today it was time to walk the cliff side trail that lead around to the Rummana Campsite. It was a fairly easy walk but lent itself to magnificent views of the canyon and reserve. We had a very funny guide who made an impromptu fire and of course tea. I wish the Arabs would look harder at their diet sometimes though and cut back on the sugar. Seriously…you guys totally overdo it!! It was then time to head down to Petra. Today we went to an old Nabatean cistern calved into a cliff (these guys are famous for their water and drainage systems. They really had it going on) and then to Little Petra (Siq Al-Barid). Here one finds a temple and four triclinia (big rooms carved into the side of the cliffs which have three benches in them and believed to be dining halls). One still has a small but nevertheless very impressive patch of painting high in detail. Next it was of to the Ammarin Bedouin Camp. It looks quite impressive but don’t camp there at night when there’s a wind and definitely not out in the open as you’ll have to drag all your bedding back indoors at about 3am as you haven’t slept a wink and then have to contend it a constantly banging door which will only be stopped when you stuff all your bedding in the doorway (shoes and towels done’t work!). It’s also good if you like a cold shower.

After a very good dinner at a fairly new restaurant (Al Qantarah), it was off to the Petra by Night show. Mum was right….it was kind of pathetic. That might be a bit harsh, but 12JD for 20min of music is a bit steep. Ok, so you get the ambiance of the candle-lit Siq and The Tresury at night, but cut the price in half or something! Sorting out the type of tourist that turns up might be a positive too. Why would you come to any performance, not stop talking the whole way through and use your flash camera (no guys, the flash won’t work here, so stop trying!!!) to make the place feel like you’re at a disco with strobe lighting (don’t go if you’re epileptic. Seriously!!) People just seem to have no ability to sit still and keep their mouths closed for longer than a few seconds. Has modern society created this monster? Get a grip, people! It could have been quite nice if you knew what you were up for, but the ending came as a bit of a shock….it just wasn’t expected that soon into the performance!! Sorry if I sound negative today. I’m really not. It’s fabulous to be back in this very special part of the world. And it really is special with the huge cliffs and sandy wadis. It’s impossible to absorb enough this landscape with your eyes. You want it to soak into your very being more and more. It’s powerful. It’s wise. And if you listen in silence long enough, those wise, old rocks will talk to you.

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Tuesday: I often sit there in amazement of myself. About what goes on in my head. My weird habits. Why is it that I try to say thank you to people in every possible language except their own? So far people have received a “merci”, “grazie” and “thank you”. Is “Shukran” really that difficult, Rebecca??

Amman is an Arab capital that you could imagine yourself living in. It doesn’t have the “bling overkill” that Dubai has or the “try hard” factor of Doha. Amman is its own being. Confident and comfortable in itself. It’s easy and safe to walk around, even late at night and everybody is friendly. “Welcome to Jordan!” is heard everywhere. No one’s in your face to sell you something. The city sits on seven hills (like Rome!) and is accessed via eight roundabouts which work their way west to east, conveniently named circle eight in the west to circle one where the citadel, built about 1800BC is located (yet to be visited!)

Today it was time to leave Amman and head south, stopping at Mt Nebo on the way. The ironic thing is that despite peace agreements in place with Israel, Jordan still has a big, old MiG pointing in that general direction. Just a friendly reminder to the Israelis, I guess! Mt Nebo is the spot where Moses supposedly stood and viewed the Promised Land. He also died here. You can still stand on the spot and see Jericho and Jerusalem and Bethlehem. You have to wonder though as Moses said he could see to Galilee which is nowhere near this spot. Yeah…nice one, Moses. I think he just said he could see that far to get a bit of extra land. No one had the heart to tell the poor, old bloke the truth.

It seems “God” has been telling a lot of people to do a lot of things over the years in this part of the world. He still does today. The history books from over here I’m sure will say that God told Saddam to do the things he did. It was happening 1000s of years ago too. Just look at Moses. Perhaps he was just after a bit of territory (nothing new there…that’s just human nature) and miraculously he could see to Galilee. Guess what. You can’t.

The problem with Israel is that it encompasses people’s ideas and interpretations. Is it a geographical location? Perhaps. Or is it a state of being (Is=Isis/female/moon, Ra=Ra/male/sun, el=Elohim/god state in balance). Maybe. Anyway, it’s all just perception. We are living here and now. That’s all that we have. Not past. Not future. So based on that, peace is required now. Not ownership. That’s all way too materialistic for my liking. Isn’t that what’s got us into the mess we’re in globally right now? Besides…none of us really own anything anyway. We should learn to detach a little more. From places and ideas. And then there is talk of “God’s chosen people”. Aren’t we all supposed to be special in God’s (or Allah’s or Spirit or the universal consciousness..….whatever name works for you) eyes? In those day’s, the big religion was Judaism. Christianity and Islam didn’t even exist. They are both an offshoot of Judaism, so who’s to say they’re not part of the “chosen” group? I think we should all concentrate on our own faults and issues a bit more (Jihad should be a personal struggle perhaps rather than against “them out there”. Anyway…..daily rant now over. At the end of the day, it really probably doesn’t matter what I think. There are lots of sites over here with lots of wonderful stories attached…and they fascinate me.

Next it was on to the obligatory workshop. A mosaic one this time. I always dread these visits but always get sucked in. You’ll be glad to know I didn’t buy anything. The piece I wanted was approx. AUD6000, so I thought best give it a miss! Lunch was next after a visit to Madaba. This is a market town located on the Kings Highway and is famous for its Byzantine church on whose floor was discovered a mosaic of a 500AD map of the region. It’s interesting that a third of the population in this town is Christian and the town has been inhabited for about 4500 years. It’s funny when you try to find a supermarket over here. It isn’t really what you and I may have in mind, e.g.: Sainsbury’s, Coles. Over here it’s a tiny, grubby little shop that sells maybe water, chocolates and a couple of shelves of tinned food/chips or biscuits. Don’t believe the sign out the front when it says that they sell, “Every Thing”.

Next we continues down the King’s Highway to Dana. This highway links Madaba to Petra and has been used for about 3000 years. It has been traversed by Israelites, Nabataeans, Christian Crusaders and Muslim pilgrims..…and me! Passing Wadi Mujib, we had a photo stop at the Crusader Castle of Karak before arriving at the spectacular Wadi Dana. This is the largest reserve in Jordan and is basically their version of The Grand Canyon. So huge and vast, it really is nature putting you in your place. Most of Dana village is a ghost town now and hanging off the side of a cliff, it makes for good exploring and photo opportunities. The odd local and a couple of rundown but quaint hotels still operate, but we stayed at the guest house. It’s the perfect location for a sunset!

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Next it was onto the Dead Sea. This is located in very picturesque country. Mountainous desert. Just my cup of tea. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth at 408m below sea level. It’s probably the hottest place on earth too and this is causing the water to evaporate very quickly. At the moment it is dropping a metre/year and hence the salinity is at a staggering 35%! Despite this, UV rays are supposedly very low. So they say. Swimming in it is a bit like swimming in an oil slick. Very silky, a bit thick and obviously very buoyant. The other thing to do is to smother yourself in Dead Sea mud, let it dry then wash it off in the water. It leaves your skin baby bottom smooth. It’s quite surreal to be swimming around with Israel on one side of you and Jordan on the other. You can even see the towers of Jerusalem and the city of Jericho.

Sorry this post is quick, but I’m sitting in a stinky internet cafe writing this. They still love to smoke EVERYWHERE over here!

Question of the day: Why do old people make such a fuss about things (just chill, guys) and have to give you a running account of what is going on in front of you (I actually do have two eyes that work!)

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